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Keyboard Not Working: Cleaning and Replacement Guide

A non-responsive keyboard can bring your entire workflow to a halt—and it's one of the most frustrating hardware issues you'll encounter. Whether you're dealing with a sticky spacebar, completely dead keys, or an entire keyboard that's stopped responding, the good news is that most keyboard failures are diagnosable and fixable with the right approach.

What many users don't realize is that a "dead" keyboard is rarely as simple as "broken hardware." In fact, based on years of repair data from SIMPLIFYTECHHUB technicians, approximately 40% of keyboard issues are related to software conflicts, driver problems, or connection faults—not physical damage. That means jumping straight into disassembly could waste hours of your time and potentially create new problems.

This guide walks you through the complete diagnostic and repair process: from identifying whether your issue is hardware or software, to safely cleaning a contaminated keyboard, to performing a full keyboard replacement on laptops and desktop systems. We'll cover the critical mistakes that damage hardware during repair, the manufacturer-specific quirks you need to watch for, and the preventive maintenance that keeps keyboards functioning for years.

What this means for your repair success: Following a methodical diagnostic process before touching a screwdriver will save you from unnecessary parts purchases, prevent accidental damage, and dramatically increase your first-time fix rate.

Step 1: Diagnose Before You Disassemble

The cardinal rule of hardware repair is simple: never assume it's a hardware fault until you've eliminated software and connection issues. This saves time, prevents unnecessary disassembly, and protects components from handling damage.

Software and Driver Diagnostics

Start with the simplest explanations:

Check Device Manager (Windows):

  • Press Win + X and select Device Manager
  • Expand "Keyboards" and look for yellow exclamation marks or error codes
  • Right-click the keyboard device and select "Update driver"
  • If issues persist, uninstall the device and reboot (Windows will reinstall the driver automatically)

Test in Safe Mode:

  • Boot into Safe Mode (hold Shift while clicking Restart, then navigate to Troubleshoot > Advanced Options > Startup Settings)
  • If the keyboard works in Safe Mode but not in normal Windows, you have a software conflict—likely a third-party application or driver

macOS Keyboard Testing:

  • Go to System Settings > Keyboard > Keyboard Shortcuts
  • Try remapping a key to confirm the system detects input
  • Boot into Safe Mode (hold Shift during startup) to test without third-party extensions

BIOS/UEFI Testing

This is the most reliable way to confirm hardware-level functionality:

  1. Restart your computer and access BIOS/UEFI (typically F2, F10, Delete, or Esc during boot—depends on manufacturer)
  2. Navigate through BIOS menus using the keyboard
  3. If the keyboard works in BIOS but not in the operating system, your issue is almost certainly software-related

What this means for your repair success: A keyboard that functions in BIOS means the hardware is operational. Your problem is in the OS, drivers, or software layer—no disassembly needed.

Connection and Port Testing

For external keyboards:

  • Try different USB ports (test both USB 2.0 and 3.0 if available)
  • If using a USB hub, connect directly to the computer
  • For wireless keyboards, replace batteries and re-pair the Bluetooth connection
  • Test the keyboard on a different computer to isolate whether the issue is with the keyboard or the host system

For laptop keyboards:

  • Connect an external USB keyboard
  • If the external keyboard works perfectly, your laptop's internal keyboard or its connection is at fault
  • This confirms you need to proceed to physical diagnostics

Manufacturer Diagnostic Tools

Major manufacturers provide official diagnostic utilities that can identify keyboard faults at the hardware level:

These tools are invaluable because they test the keyboard independently of the operating system, giving you hardware-level validation.

Real mistake we've seen—and how to avoid it: A technician spent two hours disassembling a Dell Latitude, replacing the keyboard, and reassembling—only to discover the issue was a disabled keyboard in BIOS settings (a feature in some enterprise laptops). Five minutes in BIOS would have solved it. Always exhaust software diagnostics first.

Step 2: Cleaning Your Keyboard (The Safe Way)

If diagnostics confirm your keyboard hardware is functional but certain keys are sticky, unresponsive, or require excessive force, contamination is the likely culprit. Keyboards accumulate dust, hair, skin cells, food particles, and liquid residue—all of which interfere with key mechanism operation.

Safety First: Pre-Cleaning Preparation

Before any cleaning procedure:

  1. Power down completely – Don't just sleep or hibernate; perform a full shutdown
  2. Unplug from power – For laptops, disconnect the AC adapter
  3. Remove the battery – If your laptop has a removable battery, take it out. For internal batteries, proceed with caution and avoid liquid cleaning methods
  4. Ground yourself – Use an antistatic wrist strap or touch a grounded metal surface to discharge static electricity

What this means for your repair success: Static discharge can permanently damage keyboard controller chips and other sensitive components. This is especially critical when working with modern ultra-thin laptops where the keyboard is integrated with other circuit boards.

Surface Cleaning (Non-Invasive Method)

This is appropriate for routine maintenance and minor contamination:

Tools needed:

  • Compressed air canister (with extension tube)
  • Microfiber cloth
  • 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol (IPA)
  • Cotton swabs

Procedure:

  1. Hold the laptop at a 75-degree angle and use compressed air to blow debris out from between keys
  2. Use short bursts—long sprays can cause liquid propellant to escape and damage components
  3. Dampen (not soak) a microfiber cloth with isopropyl alcohol and wipe keycap surfaces
  4. Use cotton swabs dipped in IPA to clean around individual keycaps
  5. Allow 10-15 minutes for alcohol to fully evaporate before powering on

If you're working with mechanical keyboards: This method is safe for all switch types (Cherry MX, Gateron, Kailh, etc.). The alcohol won't damage switches or keycap materials like PBT or ABS.

Deep Cleaning (Keycap Removal Method)

For mechanical keyboards or significant contamination on laptop keyboards with removable keycaps:

Tools needed:

  • Keycap puller (wire or plastic)
  • Precision screwdriver set
  • Antistatic brush
  • 90%+ isopropyl alcohol
  • Small container for soaking keycaps
  • Soft-bristle toothbrush

Procedure:

  1. Photograph your keyboard layout before removal (especially if you have a non-standard layout)
  2. Use a keycap puller to gently remove keycaps—pull straight up, not at an angle
  3. Place keycaps in a container with warm water and a drop of dish soap (or IPA solution)
  4. Use compressed air and an antistatic brush to clean exposed switches and the keyboard plate
  5. For stubborn residue on switches, use cotton swabs dampened with IPA
  6. Rinse keycaps thoroughly, dry completely (allow 24 hours if necessary)
  7. Reinstall keycaps, ensuring they're fully seated on switch stems

If you're working with laptop keyboards: Most modern laptop keyboards (especially island-style/chiclet keyboards) have keycaps that are difficult or impossible to remove without breaking retention clips. Proceed with extreme caution and only attempt removal if you have replacement keycaps available. For most laptops, surface cleaning is the safest approach.

Liquid Spill Recovery

If you've spilled liquid on your keyboard:

Immediate response (first 5 minutes):

  1. Power off immediately—do not attempt to save work
  2. Unplug and remove battery if possible
  3. Turn the laptop upside down to drain liquid away from the motherboard
  4. Blot (don't wipe) with absorbent cloth

Within 24 hours:

  1. Disassemble according to manufacturer service manual (see Step 4 for procedures)
  2. Disconnect keyboard ribbon cable
  3. Inspect for corrosion on the keyboard membrane or controller board
  4. Clean all affected areas with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol using a soft brush
  5. For sugary or acidic liquids (soda, coffee, juice), use distilled water followed by IPA to remove residue
  6. Allow all components to dry completely for 48-72 hours before reassembly

Real mistake we've seen—and how to avoid it: A user spilled water on a ThinkPad, immediately flipped it upside down (correct), but then tried to power it on to "test if it still works." The short circuit damaged the keyboard controller and fried the charging circuit. Never power on a device after liquid exposure until you're certain it's completely dry.

Optional—but strongly recommended by SIMPLIFYTECHHUB repair experts: Keep a container of silicone cleaning gel (like ColorCoral Keyboard Cleaner) in your toolkit. It's reusable, pulls debris from between keys without disassembly, and is safe for all keyboard types. Use it monthly as preventive maintenance.

Step 3: Repair or Replace—Making the Right Decision

Not every keyboard fault is worth repairing. Understanding when to clean, when to repair, and when to replace will save you hours of labor and prevent throwing good money after bad.

When Cleaning and Repair Makes Sense

Proceed with cleaning/repair if:

  • Only one or two keys are non-responsive (likely debris or stuck mechanism)
  • Keys are sticky but all register when pressed firmly (contamination issue)
  • You've had a recent minor liquid spill with non-corrosive liquid (water, diluted beverages)
  • The keyboard is from a high-value device or has sentimental value
  • You're working with a premium mechanical keyboard with hot-swappable switches

What this means for your repair success: A $15 can of compressed air and 30 minutes of careful cleaning can revive a $200 mechanical keyboard or avoid a $150 laptop keyboard replacement.

When Replacement Is the Better Option

Replace the keyboard if:

  • Multiple key rows or columns are dead (indicates matrix circuit failure)
  • The keyboard membrane is torn or punctured (common after aggressive cleaning attempts)
  • There's visible corrosion on the ribbon cable or keyboard controller
  • Liquid damage involved corrosive substances (soda, coffee with sugar/cream, acidic liquids)
  • The keyboard housing is cracked or switch housings are melted/deformed
  • You're spending more than 2 hours attempting repair on a device where replacement costs under $100

Understanding Keyboard Integration Types

Modular keyboards (easy replacement):

  • Most Dell Latitude and Precision series
  • Lenovo ThinkPad T, X, and P series
  • Older HP EliteBook and ProBook models
  • These typically use a bezel that pops off and a keyboard secured with 2-4 screws
  • Replacement time: 10-30 minutes
  • Part cost: $20-60

Integrated keyboards (complex replacement):

  • Most MacBook models (2015-present)
  • HP Spectre and Envy series
  • Dell XPS 13/15 (2019-present)
  • Microsoft Surface Laptop series
  • These require complete top case/palm rest replacement or extensive disassembly
  • Replacement time: 1-3 hours
  • Part cost: $80-300

If you're working with ultra-thin laptops (under 15mm thickness): The keyboard is often riveted or adhered to the top case. Replacement means replacing the entire top case assembly, which includes the trackpad, palm rest, and sometimes the battery. Factor this into your repair-or-replace decision.

Real mistake we've seen—and how to avoid it: A technician ordered a keyboard for a 2018 MacBook Pro without realizing Apple's butterfly keyboards are integrated into the entire top case. The standalone keyboard part doesn't exist. Always check the service manual or parts diagram before ordering components.

Cost-Benefit Analysis

Use this decision matrix:

ScenarioRepair TimePart CostDecision
Surface cleaning15-30 min$0-10Always attempt
Single key replacement (mechanical)5-10 min$1-5Always repair
Laptop keyboard (modular)20-40 min$20-60Repair if device value > $300
Laptop keyboard (integrated top case)2-4 hours$150-300Replace only if device value > $800
Extensive liquid damage3+ hoursUnknownConsider device replacement

Step 4: Keyboard Replacement (Step-by-Step)

If you've determined replacement is necessary, following proper procedures prevents damage to surrounding components and ensures successful reassembly.

Pre-Replacement Preparation

Identify the correct replacement part:

  1. Find your device's exact model number (not just the series—e.g., "Latitude 5420" not just "Latitude")
  2. Check the service tag or serial number (usually on a sticker underneath the laptop)
  3. Access the manufacturer's parts lookup or service manual to confirm the part number

Gather your tools:

  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #0, #00, and Torx T5, T6)
  • Plastic opening tools or spudgers (never use metal on plastic clips)
  • Tweezers (for handling small screws and connectors)
  • Magnetic parts tray or pill organizer (for screw organization)
  • Antistatic wrist strap
  • Service manual for your specific model

Official service manual resources:

What this means for your repair success: Using the manufacturer's official service manual ensures you don't miss hidden screws, understand the correct disassembly sequence, and know which connectors require special handling.

Laptop Keyboard Replacement Procedure

This is a generalized procedure—always consult your specific model's service manual for variations:

Step 1: Power Down and Prepare

  1. Shut down completely (not sleep or hibernate)
  2. Disconnect AC adapter
  3. Remove external devices (USB drives, SD cards, etc.)
  4. Place laptop on a clean, static-free surface
  5. If the battery is removable, take it out now

Step 2: Access the Keyboard

For top-access keyboards (most common):

  1. Locate keyboard retention clips or tabs (usually at the top edge)
  2. Use a plastic spudger to gently pry up the keyboard bezel or top edge
  3. Work carefully around the perimeter—there are typically 4-8 retention points
  4. Once released, lift the keyboard slightly but don't pull it completely out yet

For bottom-access keyboards:

  1. Remove all screws from the bottom panel (note: some may be under rubber feet or warranty stickers)
  2. Remove the bottom panel using plastic opening tools
  3. Locate keyboard screws (usually marked with a keyboard icon)
  4. Remove keyboard mounting screws (typically 2-6 screws)
  5. Flip the laptop over and carefully lift the keyboard from the top side

Step 3: Disconnect the Ribbon Cable

This is the most critical step—ribbon cable damage is the #1 cause of failed keyboard replacements.

  1. Locate the keyboard ribbon cable connector on the motherboard
  2. Identify the connector type:
    • ZIF (Zero Insertion Force): Small locking bar that flips up or slides out
    • Slide-lock: Connector housing that slides 1-2mm to release
    • Pop-off: Connector that lifts straight up (rare on keyboards)
  3. For ZIF connectors: Use a spudger to gently flip up the locking bar (it typically rotates 90 degrees)
  4. Once unlocked, gently pull the ribbon cable straight out—never pull at an angle
  5. Inspect the cable end for tears or bent pins

If you're working with HP laptops (especially EliteBook and ProBook): Many models use a two-part keyboard connection—a ribbon cable to a keyboard daughter board, then a second cable from the daughter board to the motherboard. Don't forget to disconnect both.

Step 4: Install the New Keyboard

  1. Remove the new keyboard from its packaging (handle by edges only)
  2. Align the ribbon cable with the connector on the motherboard
  3. Gently insert the ribbon cable straight into the connector until it's fully seated
  4. Lock the connector (flip down the ZIF bar or slide the lock back into place)
  5. Verify the cable is secure—give it a very gentle tug to ensure it doesn't pull out

Step 5: Reassemble and Test

  1. Position the new keyboard in the laptop housing
  2. Ensure all retention clips align with their slots
  3. Press down gently but firmly around the keyboard perimeter until all clips engage
  4. Reinstall any screws you removed
  5. Reattach the battery and AC adapter
  6. Test before full reassembly: Power on and verify all keys respond before replacing bottom panels or bezels

Real mistake we've seen—and how to avoid it: A technician replaced a keyboard on a Lenovo ThinkPad, reassembled everything, and found the keyboard still didn't work. After another full disassembly, they discovered the ribbon cable was inserted upside down (contact side facing the wrong direction). Always verify cable orientation—the contact pins should face the correct direction in ZIF connectors, and most cables have a blue or white stripe that indicates the proper orientation.

Mechanical Keyboard Switch Replacement

If you're repairing a mechanical keyboard with a single faulty switch:

For hot-swappable keyboards:

  1. Remove the keycap with a keycap puller
  2. Use a switch puller tool to extract the switch (squeeze pins and pull straight up)
  3. Insert the new switch, ensuring pins align with the socket holes
  4. Press firmly until the switch clicks into place
  5. Replace the keycap and test

For soldered switches:

  1. Disassemble the keyboard to access the PCB
  2. Use a desoldering pump or wick to remove solder from the two switch pins
  3. Remove the old switch
  4. Insert the new switch and solder the pins
  5. Test continuity before reassembly

Optional—but strongly recommended by SIMPLIFYTECHHUB repair experts: When replacing soldered switches, use a desoldering gun (like the Engineer SS-02) rather than a manual pump. It provides cleaner results, reduces heat exposure time on the PCB, and dramatically decreases the risk of lifted pads or trace damage.

Step 5: Post-Repair Testing and Calibration

Successful keyboard replacement isn't complete until you've verified every key functions correctly and the system recognizes the hardware properly.

Comprehensive Key Testing

Windows testing methods:

  1. On-Screen Keyboard verification:
    • Press Win + Ctrl + O to open the On-Screen Keyboard
    • Press each physical key and verify the corresponding on-screen key highlights
    • Test modifier keys (Shift, Ctrl, Alt) in combination with other keys
  2. Online key testers:
  3. Notepad full-keyboard test:
    • Open Notepad and type the classic pangram: "The quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog"
    • Type each number, symbol, and special character
    • Test function keys (F1-F12), media keys, and any dedicated hardware buttons

macOS testing methods:

  1. Keyboard Viewer:
    • Go to System Settings > Keyboard
    • Enable "Show Input menu in menu bar"
    • Click the input menu and select "Show Keyboard Viewer"
    • Press keys and verify they highlight in the viewer
  2. Text Edit test:
    • Open TextEdit and perform comprehensive typing tests
    • Verify all modifier combinations work (Command, Option, Control)
    • Test special macOS keys (Eject, Mission Control, Launchpad)

What this means for your repair success: Testing every key before reassembling ensures you don't have to disassemble again due to a loose connection or damaged ribbon cable. Catching issues during the test phase takes 5 minutes; catching them after reassembly costs 30-60 minutes.

Backlight and Special Function Testing

If your keyboard has backlighting or special features:

Backlight testing:

  1. Locate the keyboard backlight control (usually Fn + F5, F6, or dedicated key)
  2. Cycle through all brightness levels
  3. If backlight doesn't work, verify the backlight cable is connected (separate from the main keyboard ribbon on some models)
  4. Check BIOS settings—some laptops allow disabling keyboard backlight in BIOS

Special function testing:

  1. Test all Fn key combinations (volume, brightness, media controls)
  2. Verify any dedicated hardware keys (calculator, browser, email)
  3. For gaming keyboards, test macro keys and RGB control

If you're working with Apple MacBooks (2015-2019 butterfly keyboard models): The backlight is integrated into the keyboard assembly. If backlight doesn't work after replacement, the keyboard itself is faulty or you purchased a non-backlit version. Check the part number carefully—Apple uses different part numbers for backlit vs. non-backlit keyboards even on the same model.

Driver and Firmware Updates

Even with a hardware replacement, software can cause issues:

Windows driver updates:

  1. Open Device Manager (Win + X > Device Manager)
  2. Expand "Keyboards"
  3. Right-click your keyboard and select "Update driver"
  4. Choose "Search automatically for drivers"
  5. Restart after driver installation

macOS updates:

  1. Go to System Settings > General > Software Update
  2. Install any available updates (keyboard firmware is included in macOS updates)
  3. Restart after installation

Manufacturer-specific utilities:

  • Lenovo Vantage (for ThinkPads): Checks for keyboard firmware updates
  • HP Support Assistant: Includes keyboard driver and firmware packages
  • Dell SupportAssist: Auto-detects and installs keyboard-related updates

BIOS-Level Verification

To confirm the system detects the keyboard at the hardware level:

  1. Restart and enter BIOS/UEFI setup (F2, F10, Del, or Esc during boot)
  2. Navigate through BIOS menus using only the keyboard
  3. If you can navigate BIOS, the hardware is properly connected
  4. Check for any keyboard-specific settings:
    • Numlock on startup
    • Fn key behavior (Fn+F keys vs. F keys default)
    • Keyboard backlight behavior

Optional—but strongly recommended: After replacement and successful testing, create a system restore point or Time Machine backup. If any issues arise later, you'll have a known-good configuration to restore to.

Step 6: Preventive Care and Long-Term Maintenance

The best keyboard repair is the one you never have to do. Implementing preventive maintenance extends keyboard lifespan and prevents costly replacements.

Daily and Weekly Habits

Protect against contamination:

  • Never eat or drink directly over your keyboard—even "careful" users eventually spill
  • Keep a lid on drinks and place them at least 12 inches away from your device
  • Wash hands before extended typing sessions to reduce oil and dirt transfer
  • Use a keyboard cover (silicone or TPU) for laptops if you work in dusty environments

Weekly cleaning routine:

  1. Power off and unplug
  2. Hold laptop at an angle and use compressed air to blow out debris
  3. Wipe keycaps with a slightly dampened microfiber cloth
  4. Use a soft brush around keys to dislodge particles Total time: 3-5 minutes

If you're working in industrial, workshop, or outdoor environments: Consider using a ruggedized keyboard with IP-rated dust and water resistance. Panasonic Toughbook and Dell Rugged series offer keyboards that can withstand contamination that would kill a standard laptop keyboard in days.

Monthly Deep Maintenance

Once per month, perform a more thorough cleaning:

  1. Use keyboard vacuum or silicone cleaning gel to extract debris from between keys
  2. Clean around keycaps with cotton swabs and isopropyl alcohol
  3. Inspect for stuck keys or keys requiring excessive pressure
  4. Test all function and modifier keys
  5. Check keyboard backlight operation (if equipped)

Optional—but strongly recommended by SIMPLIFYTECHHUB repair experts: Purchase a DataVac electric duster instead of compressed air canisters. It pays for itself after 10-15 cans, never loses pressure, and provides consistent cleaning power. The investment is especially worthwhile if you maintain multiple devices.

Environmental Controls

Optimize your workspace:

  • Maintain 40-60% humidity (too dry increases static risk; too humid promotes corrosion)
  • Keep laptops off soft surfaces (beds, couches) that block ventilation and allow dust intake
  • Use a laptop stand to improve airflow and reduce heat exposure to keyboard components
  • Store devices in a case or cover when not in use for extended periods

Maintenance Tools Worth Having

Essential toolkit for keyboard maintenance:

  • Compressed air canister or electric duster
  • Microfiber cleaning cloths (at least 3-4 for rotation)
  • 90%+ isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle
  • Soft-bristle brush (camera lens brush works perfectly)
  • Keyboard vacuum or silicone cleaning gel

Professional/frequent-use toolkit additions:

  • Antistatic mat for work surface
  • USB load tester (for diagnosing power delivery issues with external keyboards)
  • Precision screwdriver set with magnetic tips
  • Keycap puller and switch puller (for mechanical keyboards)
  • UV flashlight (for detecting liquid spills that aren't visible to the naked eye)

Manufacturer-Specific Considerations

If you're working with Apple MacBooks (butterfly keyboard models 2015-2019): These keyboards are notoriously sensitive to dust and debris. Apple ran a repair program for these models due to widespread failures. Even a single grain of sand can cause key failure. For these models:

  • Clean weekly (not monthly)
  • Use compressed air at a 75-degree angle as specified in Apple's official cleaning guidance
  • Consider a keyboard cover (though this affects typing feel)
  • If keys start sticking, address immediately—butterfly switches deteriorate rapidly once contamination begins

If you're working with gaming mechanical keyboards:

  • Keycap material matters—PBT keycaps resist shine and wear better than ABS
  • Remove keycaps every 3-6 months for deep cleaning of switches
  • Use switch lubricant (Krytox 205g0) on stabilizers to prevent rattle
  • If using RGB lighting, dust buildup on switch housing reduces brightness over time

If you're working with ThinkPads:

  • The TrackPoint nub is a dust magnet—clean it weekly with isopropyl alcohol
  • ThinkPad keyboards have drainage channels for liquid spills—but they only work if the laptop is right-side-up when spills occur
  • Classic ThinkPad keyboards (pre-2012) are highly serviceable and spare parts are abundant

Key Takeaways

Diagnosis is everything: Nearly half of all keyboard issues are software, driver, or connection problems. Always test in BIOS, try an external keyboard, and run manufacturer diagnostics before assuming hardware failure.

Clean carefully and methodically: Use proper tools (compressed air, isopropyl alcohol 90%+, plastic tools only), work on a static-free surface, and never rush. Aggressive cleaning causes more damage than the original contamination.

Know when to replace: If you're facing multiple failed keys, visible corrosion, or an integrated keyboard requiring 3+ hours of labor, replacement is usually more cost-effective than repair. Calculate the value of your time.

Follow manufacturer procedures: Official service manuals exist for a reason. Attempting disassembly without the proper guide risks broken clips, damaged cables, and unnecessary complications.

Test before reassembly: Verify every key works before putting everything back together. Discovering a loose ribbon cable after reassembly costs an hour of your time.

Prevent future failures: Weekly compressed air cleaning, keeping food and drinks away from keyboards, and using keyboard covers in harsh environments will extend your keyboard's lifespan by years.

What this means for your repair success: Keyboard repair is not about shortcuts or guesswork—it's about following proven diagnostic procedures, using proper tools, respecting manufacturer-specific quirks, and knowing when professional intervention or replacement is the smarter path. Master these principles and you'll achieve high first-time fix rates while protecting yourself from costly mistakes.

Need Expert Guidance?

Self-serve resources work for many repairs—but sometimes you need an experienced technician looking over your shoulder.

Let SIMPLIFYTECHHUB or one of our hardware experts guide your repair project.

We're here to simplify hardware repair—whether you choose to learn it yourself or have us walk with you every step of the way.


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